![]() Take care when selecting timber for the rails since ant twist or bow here will be reflected in the geometry of the door. Ideally the thicker stock used for the stiles and top rail should be the same thickness as the thinner stock used for the lower rails plus the thickness of the planking combined. A wider and thinner stock for the lower rails and braces, and then finally some suitable planking to provide the door cover (traditionally T&G or "matching" is used here). Three different sizes will be required A full thickness timber for the top rail and both stiles. Pressure treated softwood is a reasonable choice for many applications. While not an entry level carpentry job, it is one well within most peoples reach if taken carefully. This type of door construction is ideal for large heavy doors such as garage or barn doors, and can also be adapted for some designs of gate. ![]() Part 5.This article describes one way of making a fairly traditional framed ledge and braced door. Next - Marking and cutting mortises followed by wedgingĬomments Let us know how you do it! over on the blog The method I use now needs minimal marking out and gives me quick and precise mortise and tenon joints. The video shows how I do this accurately, getting that shoulder bang on using a router table with a cross slide.īefore I had fancy tools, I used to hand cut them with a hand saw. That determined the thickness of the tenon although you can see from the video I never actually had to measure this. The rails and stiles are 43mm thick so I choose a 5/8inch/15.9mm chisel (closest to 1/3). With the theory behind it I've dimensioned up the door tenons like this: The solution is to cut part of the tenon out so we only need two shorter mortices. This long mortise will significantly weaken the stiles. The Middle and Bottom rails are deep so the unmodified joint would need a very long mortise. By leaving a HAUNCH on the tenon we get back even closer to full strength. Reducing the height of the tenon and corresponding mortise, brings the joint back to near original strength. A simple peg through the joint would do the job but not as well as the regular full tenon. One direction is under the tenacious force of gravity Glue alone won't hold this joint together, it's easy to imagine how it can move and pull apart. This joint can be pulled apart in two directions. So the unmodified joint would look like this. ![]() The top rail and bottom rail join the upright stiles at the corners of the door. The tenon is then cut to the same size as the mortise.įor a door this simple mortise tenon joint needs complicating slightly in two areas. The actual size is often determined by the width of the chisel available that is closest a 1/3 of timber. Any wider and the mortice piece is weaker than it needs to be, any thinner and the tenon will be weaker than it needs. The mortice (hole) should not be wider than about a 1/3 of the timber width. This is why, as you will see in the video, I pay particular attention to this point. Glue, pegs or wedges can help the rest of joint but the shoulder is on it's own. The rest of joint gives strength and location. ![]() Understanding the importance of the tenon shoulder helps to focus on where accuracy is needed. To stop it moving too far in and to keep the joint square, the tenon needs a shoulder. So with a tenon on one piece and a mortice in another we have a joint that can only move in one direction. Starting with the basics, a tenon is a “square peg” that fits in to a mortice “square hole” If you don't need the theory scroll down to see the door tenon dimensions and cutting technique I'm using. Tenons, Theory and Cutting for Timber Doors ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |